Frank Cornelissen, (some) 2016 MunJebel
Alpinist, race car driver, fine wine broker, reluctant natural wine pioneer. What a fun CV Frank Cornelissen has! Belgian-born, Frank has been making wine on the unique slopes of Mount Etna since 2001. His MunJebel Bianco was one of the wines at the source of the now global orange wine trend but in typical fashion he stopped making it with long maceration periods as soon as orange wine became cool. Frank is not known for his outgoing personality and generally allows his wines (and various representatives) to talk for him.
Besides Susucaru which sits alongside Hennessy and Ace of Spades as one of Hip Hop’s favourite drinks, Frank makes a wide range of single vineyard and terroir driven Nerello Mascalese across various parcels at different altitudes on Etna. These wines are called MunJebel, meaning ‘beautiful mountain’ in local dialect, the name given to the mighty Mount Etna. I tried through a few of Frank’s 2016 MunJebels (as well as the 2017 Susucaru which is as lush as ever!) and here is my verdict.
2016 was a cool vintage on Etna meaning that grapes ripened later during a short warm period at the end of the season making for very balanced wines. By all accounts, 2016 was a good vintage for Etna.
MunJebel Bianco Classico
A blend of Grecanico Dorato and Carraicante. MunJebel Bianco now spends no longer than four days in contact with the skins. This is quite a full bodied white with a wonderful voluptuous mouth feel. There are nice mineral notes here propped up by a nascent sharpness. This will no doubt develop smoothly for years to come.
MunJebel Rosso Classico
This is the entry level MunJebel and it sets the standard high. The nose is quite pungent, like a washed rind cheese, the palate is just delicious, juicy, fruity, lush and fresh. It has the structure to age, but it’s so moreish now that I can’t see much being around in five years’ time. Most Etna producer’s top wines only reach this level of complexity in the very best vintages, Cornelissen has a whole range above this one!
MunJebel, Le Vigne Alte
Le Vigne Alte is a mere cuvee as opposed to a single vineyard, it’s actually blended from three different 90 year plus parcels from 870m to 1,000m altitude. This a pretty grippy wine, lots of tannins and rough charm, but the precision is astounding. You can pick out flavours like clear sharp diamonds in fruity tannic rubble. In Cornelissen’s own words: the most Burgundian of all his wines.
MunJebel, Contrada Zottorinoto, Chiusa Spagnolo
This is the first actual single vineyard of the tasting. Contrada Zottorinoto from where this comes is situated at 650m. This wine is the lightest, most subtle of the wines tasted possibly due to the Chiusa Spagnola part of the Contrada Zottorinoto vineyard being neatly tucked into a natural amphitheatre shielding the grapes and allowing them to develop more gentle characteristics. It is beautifully delicate and the tannins are very well integrated but it is structured enough to hold up for years to come.
MunJebel, Contrada Monte Colla
Contrada Monte Colla is not actually on Etna. On a very steep slope opposite Etna at 760m, the soil here is sandy clay and the exposition is different giving the vines more sun and wind. Frank affectionately calls this his ‘little Hermitage’. This is by far the bulkiest wine of the range, a rich deep behemoth of a drink. The depth is amazing, you can really get lost in it. Huge red fruit flavours invade the palate lingering and lingering making for a fantastic finish and a long lasting memory. Delightful!
Magma Contrada Barbabecchi
Magma is Cornelissen’s top wine, only made in the very best vintages, it comes from the 100 year plus Contrada Barbabecchi vineyard at around 910m. A true powerhouse. Delicate and fresh floral odours gently flow out of the glass and caress the nose lulling you into a full sense of security and enchantment. The first sip is gentle, friendly, welcoming, it makes you feel good and calm… then slowly but surely, the flavours develop, the tannins appear, like a commando volcanic eruption, Magma is here! It’s immense! You will never forget it, its taste, its complexity, its depth, the feeling of vulnerability in the face of a near perfection… but it’s fine, the gentle finish is here to hold you, comfort you and calmly rock you back into the real world. This is the type of wine that reminds you that you are mortal and generally pretty insignificant but that nature’s greatness will outlive us all… just a gentle reminder. Magma is brilliant.
Besides Susucaru which sits alongside Hennessy and Ace of Spades as one of Hip Hop’s favourite drinks, Frank makes a wide range of single vineyard and terroir driven Nerello Mascalese across various parcels at different altitudes on Etna. These wines are called MunJebel, meaning ‘beautiful mountain’ in local dialect, the name given to the mighty Mount Etna. I tried through a few of Frank’s 2016 MunJebels (as well as the 2017 Susucaru which is as lush as ever!) and here is my verdict.
2016 was a cool vintage on Etna meaning that grapes ripened later during a short warm period at the end of the season making for very balanced wines. By all accounts, 2016 was a good vintage for Etna.
MunJebel Bianco Classico
A blend of Grecanico Dorato and Carraicante. MunJebel Bianco now spends no longer than four days in contact with the skins. This is quite a full bodied white with a wonderful voluptuous mouth feel. There are nice mineral notes here propped up by a nascent sharpness. This will no doubt develop smoothly for years to come.
MunJebel Rosso Classico
This is the entry level MunJebel and it sets the standard high. The nose is quite pungent, like a washed rind cheese, the palate is just delicious, juicy, fruity, lush and fresh. It has the structure to age, but it’s so moreish now that I can’t see much being around in five years’ time. Most Etna producer’s top wines only reach this level of complexity in the very best vintages, Cornelissen has a whole range above this one!
MunJebel, Le Vigne Alte
Le Vigne Alte is a mere cuvee as opposed to a single vineyard, it’s actually blended from three different 90 year plus parcels from 870m to 1,000m altitude. This a pretty grippy wine, lots of tannins and rough charm, but the precision is astounding. You can pick out flavours like clear sharp diamonds in fruity tannic rubble. In Cornelissen’s own words: the most Burgundian of all his wines.
MunJebel, Contrada Zottorinoto, Chiusa Spagnolo
This is the first actual single vineyard of the tasting. Contrada Zottorinoto from where this comes is situated at 650m. This wine is the lightest, most subtle of the wines tasted possibly due to the Chiusa Spagnola part of the Contrada Zottorinoto vineyard being neatly tucked into a natural amphitheatre shielding the grapes and allowing them to develop more gentle characteristics. It is beautifully delicate and the tannins are very well integrated but it is structured enough to hold up for years to come.
MunJebel, Contrada Monte Colla
Contrada Monte Colla is not actually on Etna. On a very steep slope opposite Etna at 760m, the soil here is sandy clay and the exposition is different giving the vines more sun and wind. Frank affectionately calls this his ‘little Hermitage’. This is by far the bulkiest wine of the range, a rich deep behemoth of a drink. The depth is amazing, you can really get lost in it. Huge red fruit flavours invade the palate lingering and lingering making for a fantastic finish and a long lasting memory. Delightful!
Magma Contrada Barbabecchi
Magma is Cornelissen’s top wine, only made in the very best vintages, it comes from the 100 year plus Contrada Barbabecchi vineyard at around 910m. A true powerhouse. Delicate and fresh floral odours gently flow out of the glass and caress the nose lulling you into a full sense of security and enchantment. The first sip is gentle, friendly, welcoming, it makes you feel good and calm… then slowly but surely, the flavours develop, the tannins appear, like a commando volcanic eruption, Magma is here! It’s immense! You will never forget it, its taste, its complexity, its depth, the feeling of vulnerability in the face of a near perfection… but it’s fine, the gentle finish is here to hold you, comfort you and calmly rock you back into the real world. This is the type of wine that reminds you that you are mortal and generally pretty insignificant but that nature’s greatness will outlive us all… just a gentle reminder. Magma is brilliant.
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